Randolfi's White Bolognese
Randolfi's has closed.
Months ago, I recommended that a friend have a celebratory dinner at Randolfi's. She texted me midway through her meal, exclaiming that the white bolognese was so good, she might just get a second order of it instead of dessert.
I responded with some emphatic mix of emojis and exclamation points, but in truth, I wanted to respond with the emoji of the sad man walking. I could not empathize with her. I was lying.
I hadn't eaten the white bolognese yet.
Weeks later, I went back to Randolfi's and tried to place an order for the white bolo, only to have chef Tommy Salami question me. "We've got a lot of new stuff on the menu—why are you getting the white bolo again?"
I tried to think of a good excuse, but I had to confess: "I've actually never had the white bolo..."
I'll spare you the details of the conversation, but I was berated like a Marine at boot camp.
The only way this dish could get more decadent would be if they shaved truffles over it—which they absolutely should offer, by the way. It looks like a golden volcano. At its peak, a cured egg yolk. The sides, freshly made papperdelle. The white bolognese sauce covers it and pools around the sides.
The sauce, a Mike Randolph invention, is a combination of garlic, shallots, pancetta, ground pork, heavy cream, herbs, and...chicken livers. I know what a lot of you are thinking—you were in, but now you're out. Don't skip out just because you think you hate livers. This dish is balanced. You'd never know you were eating livers, it just lends itself to giving the sauce a meatier flavor. No one flavor is dominant. It's just pure, comforting bliss. Especially if you're a fat boy at heart, like me.
PSA: if you eat this, you will need to Uber home. You will be so full and so happy, you won't want to move. Don't white bolognese and drive.